Interview with… Esteban González – Pattern Maker & Designer

Today, we want to present you the third interview of the series “Interview with…” . This time it is the turn of Esteban González. Esteban runs a company that specialises in pattern and prototype making and is responsible for one of Betangible’s prototyping workshops. Let’s get to know a bit more about his work…

Betangible: From where do you usually start your work? What is the first step?

Esteban Gonzalez:

I can start the process from three different points of view:

A detailed drawing with measurements and information
A simple sketch
Some pictures that will be used as an inspiration for the new style
A real bag to which I have to make modifications so that the new style can communicate the concept of the collection.´

Betangible: Which are the tools that you use in your workshop?

EG: The tools that I use are mainly a ruler, a scale, my computer with a CAD programme and a cutting plotter.

Betangible: How did you become a pattern maker and a designer?

EG: Well, my sister is an architect and I used to see her making drawings, creating new concepts for buildings and working with CAD/CAM technology. I learned quite a lot of things from her. When I was in my 20s, I started working for a leather goods manufacturer in Ubrique and I found out that I could apply my knowledge about volumes and shapes into the leather goods industry. Several years later, I decided to run my own business in which I could apply my deep knowledge about both field, the manufacturing of leather goods and pattern making.

Betangible: What type of clients do you have?

EG: They are mainly from Spain (designers and leather goods manufacturers). However I decided to create a webpage in order to offer my services in other countries. On my website, I also want to share my creations and designs so that they can be used for other people’s collections.

Betangible: What are the main steps for making a pattern?

EG: I follow the following steps_

1st. Interpretation of the style (measurements, main features, …) and the understanding of the concept of the whole collection.

2nd. I implement all the parts into my CAD application (Front part, bottom part, gusset, handles, strap, …) and I make three different sets of patterns:

Patterns of design: For the assembly of the leather item. I always mark the stitch width and other important information for the manufacturer. This will avoid future issues in the workshop.
Cutting patterns: For the main material (leather, canvas, …) in which I make marks for the thinning.
Patterns for reinforcements and lining: Specifying the proper materials to be used so that we can get the desired effect, volume, stiffness,…

3^rd. Nesting of the different pieces for cutting

4^th. Cutting of the cardboard using a cutting plotter.

I decided to work this way because I aim at minimising the risks of a mistake in the workshop that will eventually lead to a less cost-effective production.

Betangible: Is it a quick process?

EG: It depends on the item. I must say that CAD/CAM technology facilitates the process very much and also makes the whole process more accurate.

Betangible: What types of leather goods are more demanded?

EG: I can say that they are mainly leather bags. So, I can say that…