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This is the first post of a series in which we will try to show you the different materials and processes evolved in the manufacturing of a leather item.

Leather is “animal skin dressed for use,” according to the Merriam-Webster dictionary . Animal hides are by-products of the food industry, and therefore we can find many different types of leathers and hides. Although today most leather is made of cattle skin, there are many other types such as lambskin, pigskin and deerskin, which are used in the manufacturing of leather goods. More exotic skins from crocodiles, ostriches or stingrays are also used for more exclusive and costly products.

As for the forms in which leather is usually bought, we can mainly find:

• · Split leather is obtained when the top-grain is separated from the hide and then, a non-natural layer is applied. Split leather is usually a cheaper type of leather. Split leather is also used to make suede.

• · Corrected leather has got an artificial layer on it in order to correct the imperfections of the hides that do not meet the minimum quality requirements to make top or full-grain leather.

• · Top-grain leather has less breathability than full-grain leather due to its “plastic-like” finish coat, which gives this type of leather a greater resistance to stains.

• · Full-grain leather is the upper section of a hide that has not had any treatments to remove imperfections on its surface. Its breathability and natural touch are very appreciated.

1 · Geographical Location: Ubrique is located between two Natural Parks, Alcornocales (Cork tree) and Grazalema Natural Parks, which have been widely exploited by the inhabitants of this area. For instance:

• · There is an ancient farming tradition due to the favourable climate and the fertile soil. Cows, bulls, goats and sheep have traditionally been bred and, therefore, products like cheese, milk, meat and leather have always been associated to this area.
• · High quality vegetable tannins from the cork were used for the leather tanning process.

2 · During the Arab occupation of Andalusia (Al-Andalus) there was an exchange of several manufacturing techniques, which gave the craftsmen of this area a worldwide-recognised reputation. In fact, the Spanish term “marroquinería” and the French word “maroquinerie”, which come from the word “Morocco”, are used to refer to the “leather goods industry”

3 · An important Roman Road, which can be visited nowadays, crossed Ubrique mountain range. This fact favoured the development of craft businesses related to the typical products of this area such as leather goods and cheese.

4 · People in this area have a vast reputation of being intrepid entrepreneurs. This innate skill has made them be in the vanguard of several innovations in the leather manufacturing process.

5 · The Leather Industry in Andalusia has been able to adapt itself to modern times without loosing the positive values and positive aspects of past times.

Using leather to cover objects has traditionally been linked to upholstery. This “wrapping technique” has evolved and it’s being used for many different objects and accessories. Just have a look at these items. Only the best craftsmen can adjust the leather to the shape of any object. Who dares…?

Leather wrapping manufacturing technique

Nobody questions the importance of preserving the heritage of a city, town or community. However, not many people are sensitive to preserving Industrial Heritage, which deals with buildings, artefacts, techniques and products which are inherited from past generations, maintained in the present and bestowed for the benefit of future generations, often forming a significant attraction for tourism.

The Leather Museum of Ubrique is modestly trying to spread the history, tradition and treasures of the leather sector in Andalucía. If you have the opportunity to come to Andalucía, it’s worth visiting.

According to the Encyclopaedia Britannica a Designer is one that designs: as a:  one who creates and often executes plans for a project or b:  one that creates and manufactures high-fashion clothing. The same source defines a Manufacturer as one that manufacturers; especially an employer of workers in manufacturing.

Both are much more that those quite formal definitions. A designer is also the artist of the intangible, the concepts, and a visionary. On his part, a manufacturer is the master of the concrete, the tangible, and the physical. A figure that has the skills to make the ideas and creations of designers come true into tangible objects.

I have seen that both figures do not really manage to understand each other due to different factors that we will analyse in future posts. At Betangible www.betangible.com we believe in the unity, understanding, and cohesion between designers and manufacturers… Do you want to join us?

Just wanted to show some nice products we have come across recently. They are all made using the moulding technique. This manufacturing technique was first used here in Andalusia in order to make small items like coin purses and small leather goods for raw tobacco. Nowadays, this technique is being used to make mobile phones cases, cardholders and i-pad® covers and cases.

At Betangible we also want to tell you about new ideas, projects and collaborations between designers and companies in the lifestyle sector. I want to show you the collaboration between Remain Kremer, current menswear Head Designer at Thierry Mugler and the Spanish Tanners Confederation. The exhibition, which took place some time ago, was held at Modenatie facilities (Antwerp). Romain Kremer used top quality Spanish Nappa lambskin for his creation.  The name for the exhibition was “Beauty & No Beast” since, as the Young designer stated “ I just found beauty and pleasure to my senses … but no beast” referring to the European traditional tale.