A very well known fashion designer told us, during a visit in the leather goods industry in Andalusia, that the way Andalusian leather workers manufacture leather goods reminds him of Swiss watchmakers such as Tag Heuer , Rolex and Piaget . Today, we want to share a video titled “Rolex – The Movement”, in which you can see the making process of a Rolex… We hope you enjoy it.
First-level industries must be surrounded by other auxiliary industries that support the industrial activity and help the leading industry in its everyday work. The Andalusian leather goods industry boasts more than a hundred companies that accompany leather goods manufacturers in their tasks providing products and services.
Leather suppliers in Ubrique are stocking in their warehouses millions of square feet of all types of leather. The leather comes from first-level European tanneries, mainly based in Spain, Italy and France.
We managed to get several quite old photos of some workshops and manufacturers from Ubrique, which we want to share with our readers. The photos were taken more than 60 years ago, therefore the workshops in the photos have seen some generations of leather workers pass by and, in so doing, they have become icons of the savoir-faire of the leather industry in Andalusia.
The older generations of leather workers started to learn the job when they were around 17 years old. At first, they were responsible for very basic tasks and, as they learned the job, they became more implied in the whole manufacturing process.
Did you know that a wallet could be composed of more than 50 different small pieces? Each of the pieces must be cut with the greatest precision in order to get the highest quality. Leather goods manufacturers in Ubrique (Andalusia) are using three main cutting methods.
- · Hand cut: Only the most skilful cutters are able to cut the leather by hand. In order to do this, a cardboard pattern and a sharp blade are used. The cutter must also be able to select the proper areas of the leather for each part of the leather item.
- · Die Cutting (Press Machine): When there is a considerable amount of items to be produced, a metal cutting piece is made for each piece of which the leather item is composed. A press machine is used to cut the leather
- · Automatic cutting system (CAD/CAM Technology) : Although the investment in this kind of technology is very high, automatic-cutting system provide manufacturers with a multifunctional tool for the current times. CAD/CAM technology is really helping manufacturers to meet the needs and demands of the market since it helps you develop critical processes in the manufacturing of a leather item such as pattern making, easy pattern amendment and prototype & sample making. Automatic cutting systems are ideal for small batch production.
Plenty of fashion designers and brands have asked Betangible to find a leather goods manufacturer for them. There is a repeated reaction when they observe the way in which leather workers perform their work. The majority of these designers get impressed about the great care they take over their work. When we ask designers about their feedback, they say things like…
- ·“I can see the passion they have for their work”
- ·“¿How can they make it?”
- ·“Now, I understand why …”
- ·“The more I see, the more ideas come to my mind”
At Betangible, we are proud about the fact that many leading fashion designers and brands appreciate the work that is being performed in this area. For this reason, one may say that “Made in Andalusia” leather goods can be found in the best stores in the world.
This is the first post of a series in which we will try to show you the different materials and processes evolved in the manufacturing of a leather item.
Leather is “animal skin dressed for use,” according to the Merriam-Webster dictionary . Animal hides are by-products of the food industry, and therefore we can find many different types of leathers and hides. Although today most leather is made of cattle skin, there are many other types such as lambskin, pigskin and deerskin, which are used in the manufacturing of leather goods. More exotic skins from crocodiles, ostriches or stingrays are also used for more exclusive and costly products.
- · Chrome tanned leather is tanned using chrome sulphate. This chemical gives the leather a more supple finish. Colourfastness is better than vegetable tanned leather.
- · Vegetable tanned leather is tanned using vegetable origin tannins. Vegetable tanned leather is less supple and harder. “Moulded Leather Goods” must be manufactured with this type of leather.
As for the forms in which leather is usually bought, we can mainly find:
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· Split leather is obtained when the top-grain is separated from the hide and then, a non-natural layer is applied. Split leather is usually a cheaper type of leather. Split leather is also used to make suede.
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· Corrected leather has got an artificial layer on it in order to correct the imperfections of the hides that do not meet the minimum quality requirements to make top or full-grain leather.
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· Top-grain leather has less breathability than full-grain leather due to its “plastic-like” finish coat, which gives this type of leather a greater resistance to stains.
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· Full-grain leather is the upper section of a hide that has not had any treatments to remove imperfections on its surface. Its breathability and natural touch are very appreciated.
According to the Encyclopaedia Britannica a Designer is one that designs: as a: one who creates and often executes plans for a project or b: one that creates and manufactures high-fashion clothing. The same source defines a Manufacturer as one that manufacturers; especially an employer of workers in manufacturing.
Both are much more that those quite formal definitions. A designer is also the artist of the intangible, the concepts, and a visionary. On his part, a manufacturer is the master of the concrete, the tangible, and the physical. A figure that has the skills to make the ideas and creations of designers come true into tangible objects.
I have seen that both figures do not really manage to understand each other due to different factors that we will analyse in future posts. At Betangible www.betangible.com we believe in the unity, understanding, and cohesion between designers and manufacturers… Do you want to join us?
Just wanted to show some nice products we have come across recently. They are all made using the moulding technique. This manufacturing technique was first used here in Andalusia in order to make small items like coin purses and small leather goods for raw tobacco. Nowadays, this technique is being used to make mobile phones cases, cardholders and i-pad® covers and cases.
